Asuncion

Asuncion is the largest city in the country of Paraguay, home to about a third of the nation´s residents. The best words to describe life in the city are fast and lean. At first, the activities of the city, everything from driving to commerce to socializing, seemed sporadic, confusing, haphazard. Many intersections have no street signs because people "just know." A concert at 10pm doesn´t really start until 1am. Buses barrel down crowded streets, so close to one another that you expect to see sparks at any moment. A world of near-misses and chaos. But now that I have grown more accustomed to this place, I can detect a syncopation of sorts. A bizarre, rapid, ridiculous choreography, and Paraguayans seem to keep in step without any effort at all. For me, however, the dance that is Asuncion requires all of my attention. Watch my step because the sidewalks are uneven and full of gaping holes. Check for cars because they drive fast and never stop for pedestrians. Keep my bag clutched close to my side at all times. Maintain a "hard" demeanor and appear confident even when lost or confused. Watch for an open seat on the bus because the ride is jarring and long.

But I do enjoy all of the activity, and there is a sense of accomplishment in each day. The places and people that I know are spread out over the entire city, and I am gradually learning how to make my way to all of them. The colectivo is the bus system here, but there are no signs for bus stops. You just find a group of people standing around waiting for their ride. When you see your number approaching, raise your arm out and point to the street in front of you. While entering the bus, have your money ready and be sure to grab the railing since the bus will likely start moving again as soon as your foot leaves the curb. When you are getting close to your stop, make your way towards the back door and pull the cord to ring the bell. I always seem to almost miss my stop, and I´m still getting used to it. One thing I haven´t gotten used to is the staring. I don´t think I look all that different, but I know I must. People comment regularly on how white I am, or on my reddish hair. The population is fairly homogenous with some Eurpoean and Asian populations. I haven´t seen a single black person yet in the city.

My family lives just outside of the city proper, in a municipality called Lambare. It is tranquil and green with cobblestone streets and dusty sidewalks. Katie lives in the city center with Marlene, a hilarious Paraguayan girl who works at the English school where Katie and Jana are working. Jana lives in the city about two miles from my house with Jorge and Marta, a sweet Argentinian couple that works at a 7th Day Adventist health center. Jon lives in a posh neighborhood with Santiago´s family. Each of us seems to have landed in the best place possible circumstances for our personality and knowledge of the Spanish language. I am glad to be where I am. My house is a welcome respite from the noise and motion of the city.